Sunday, April 20, 2014

A colorful ribbon of highway

Winding Stair Mountain, Ouachita National Forest.  
There is an equal feeling of awe and sadness when visiting Ouachita National Forest in Arkansas and Oklahoma.
Awe, because coming from North Texas it is extraordinary to encounter such an immense mountainous territory covered by pine, white oak, cedar, elm, and cherry trees. Is in this region where the eastern forests meet the endless prairies of the American Midwest.
Sadness, because the most common sight on the highways around this sea of green are gigantic trucks carrying hundreds of tree logs to nearby mills. The feeling, though, quickly turns into quiet meditation when considering the hundreds of wood and wood pulp items used in daily life, most notably toilet paper! It is also encouraging to learn that there has been a sustainable wood production in the area since the 1960s.
It was not always like this, though. During the early 1900s, millions after millions of trees were cut, not only to build miles of railroad, but to feed the hungry mills that popped up in the region shortly after the end of the Civil War. Today, the National Forest keeps a booming business that produces around 27 million cubic feet of wood every year. In fact, their ecosystem management includes wildlife restoration, the effects of human interaction, and recreation opportunities.  
Talimena Scenic Byway
The forest, that covers almost 2 million acres of land in central Arkansas and Southeast Oklahoma, sits atop Ouachita Mountain range, the only horizontal mountain range in the continent. An easy and quick way to appreciate its majesty is through a scenic drive. The Talimena Scenic byway is a 54 mile sinuous road that includes historic sites, trailheads, an arboretum, a resort, and a variety of mesmerizing vistas.
Starting in Talihina, Oklahoma, the roads ascends to a series of rounded, colorful mountains called Winding Stair. In the Spring and Fall months, backpackers and campers abund. They drop off around here to hike Horsethief Springs Trail, once used by real thieves who smuggled wild horses from Oklahoma into Texas.
As the road ascends, the wind becomes a main character in the history of this unique landscape. Majestic miniature white oaks, yellow buckeyes, and short-leaf pines cover the soil on the mountain ridge. Constant wind and extreme soil conditions deny these trees the possibility to grow more than 7 feet tall. The result is a surreal landscape of dwarfed trees where the wind blows hard and the water slips down to feed the trees at the mountain base.
Driving east, past Arkansas' state line, Queen Wilhelmina's resort offers yet another surprise. Built in the early 20th century by Dutch investors, this european style resort delighted railroad travelers for a few years, but it quickly proved financially unsuccessful. After years of neglect, it was restored in the
1980s, and it is again being renewed to host outdoors lovers and bikers alike. A few miles forward, a fire tower signals the highest point of the drive. An old picture of the fireman's family, some picnic tables and a mighty wind bid a quick farewell to visitors. The road, then, descends towards a few more spectacular vistas of the ridge and the communities around.
Luckily for the neighbors, there is still a veil of mystery around it. Most visitors are outdoor enthusiasts from Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas. During the fall, however, the highway becomes a pilgrimage for photography enthusiasts and landscape lovers. The beauty that Ouachita National Forest offers through its hiking trails, campsites, and water reservoirs is a gem waiting to be found.